Something To Be
Thankful For:
Sophie Theallet
Has Received Investment Offers,
But Searching For The Right Match
By Richard Collings
Published: February 17, 2010
Sophie Theallet, it seems, has a lot to be thankful for, perhaps inspiration for her fall 2010 women’s wear collection that was a visual cornucopia of lush mouth-watering colors and fabrics.
A number of the garments had a languid sensuality and featured a rich palette of forest emerald green, chocolate, red raspberry, watermelon, plum, lavender, a burnt shade of pumpkin orange, and a soft powdery blue among others.
Fabrics used might be found in a cozy Victorian during the holiday season, and included chiffon, velvet, shearling, and silk. Meditations on pleating and draping throughout the collection evoked Madeleine Vionnet and Jeanne Lanvin, designers revered by Ms. Theallet.
The sophisticated take on fairy tale dresses is likely to be a hit with customers, too, offering comfort, pleasing the senses, in unsettling times.
Her Thanksgiving Day feast could be in gratitude for winning a $200,000 grant award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America/Vogue Fashion Fund, no doubt well-deserved.
In addition to the award, Ms. Theallet has received the support of the industry, her front rows filled with fashion’s most influential, such as critics Suzy Menkes of The International Herald-Tribute and Cathy Horyn of The New York Times, as well as the editors of Vogue magazine’s flagship publication Anna Wintour, Hamish Bowles, Andre Leon Talley and Grace Coddington, plus Carine Roitfeld, editor of Paris Vogue, to name a few.
First Lady Michelle Obama is a client, and Ms. Theallet latest accolade was being named one of the CFDA’s ten fashion incubator designers receiving studio space at a reduced rate.
Though Ms. Theallet is considered an emerging talent, she has years of experience developing her craft. The French-born designer cut her teeth under design greats Jean-Paul Gaultier and Azzedine Alaia, the latter of whom she spent roughly ten years with.
Even with such resources and experience, Ms. Theallet does not sleep well night, especially during a collection, her husband and business partner Steven Francoeur jested.
And while the press and mentoring are both key to establishing Ms. Theallet’s vision and brand, there are still significant challenges as competing labels have much greater marketing and financial resources. Regardless, Francoeur said the brand’s business will grow this year.
After only a handful of collections, Ms. Theallet’s wholesale clients include retailers such as Barneys New York, Nordstrom, Ikram, and Jeffrey.
As a result of her early success, Ms. Theallet’s label has already been approached with offers of investment, Francoeur said. He said, however, that he and his wife are waiting for the right match in terms of an investor and business partner, and are content to continue building the brand on their own.
To date, the company is self-financed, aided by awards such as the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund grant, and steady growth in revenues despite the downturn, Francoeur said.
The grant money in particular has allowed the company to be more free with fabrics purchased, as well as to add “beautiful jackets and simple cashmere knits and chic pants.”
In the end, Sophie Theallet has “had to be master’s of efficiency and ingenuity,” while “keeping steady with our progression and being cautious to stay within our means.”
While Ms. Theallet is aware of the economic difficulties, Francouer explained, “she does not see the point of creating a collection if it is not unique with a very strong point of view.”
As the models drifted down the runway taking their own sweet time, I couldn’t help but think that this is a designer who will be around for a while, and will likely find in all that patience the right investor to add a little more simmer to this tasteful brand.
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